Exploring northern Tanzania

Travel guidebook of the month: Northern Tanzania: The Bradt Safari Guide, by Philip Briggs

I first heard of guidebook writer Philip Briggs back when I was living in Egypt, and travelers passing through Cairo after visiting eastern Africa would rave about the usefulness of Briggs' Bradt guides to places like Ethiopia, Uganda, and Rwanda. Briggs' latest Africa guidebook is a Bradt guide to the safari-rich region of northern Tanzania, which boasts renowned wildlife-viewing areas such as Serengeti National Park and the Ngorongoro Conservation Area.  Moreover, Tanzanians have a reputation as courteous and dignified hosts, and that makes this stretch of East Africa a great starting point for those in search of a classic Africa travel experience. 

In addition to wildlife reserves, Briggs' Bradt guide provides essential travel information for a number of northern Tanzanian highlights between Lake Victoria and the island of Zanzibar, including Mt. Kilimanjaro, the Maasai Steppes, Olduvai Gorge, the Rift Valley, and the adventure-travel hub town of Arusha — as well as lesser-known attractions. 

Intrigued by the region's cultural and wildlife attractions, I e-mailed Philip Briggs at his home in South Africa to find out more about independent travel strategies in northern Tanzania.

Northern Tanzania has a lot in common with the well-established safari grounds of southern Kenya. What sets it apart - culturally and geophysically — from its Kenyan counterpart?

Philip Briggs: Culturally, the two areas are very similar, but northern Tanzania is more geologically interesting, thanks to the volcanically formed Mount Kilimanjaro and Meru (the highest and fifth-highest mountains in Africa) and the stunning Ngorongoro Crater. Tourist densities are far lower in the Serengeti and adjoining national parks than in their Kenyan counterpart, the Maasai Mara — all of which makes for a more genuine and superior bush experience. 

For a first-timer to east Africa with, say, two weeks in the country, what destinations and activities would you recommend in northern Tanzania?

PB: The obvious starting point would be a six- to 10-day safari taking the Serengeti, Ngorongoro Crater and the less publicized but equally worthwhile Tarangire and Manyara National Parks — the former renowned for its bulbous baobab trees and dense elephant herds, the latter for its pink flamingo flocks and tree-climbing lions. Energetic travelers might want to follow this up with an ascent of Kilimanjaro, which requires 5-7 days, while sun-worshipers might prefer to chill out on the offshore "Spice Island" of Zanzibar.

You mention Mt. Kilimanjaro, which is a classic landmark — and climbing it is sure to be on many travelers' checklists.  What kind of fitness level does summiting Kilimanjaro require?

PB: General consensus is that one needs to be "reasonably fit" — a less than precise label, it has to be said! The ascent is basically a long uphill hike, one that requires no special climbing skills, but the final slog to the summit — which involves rising at midnight to reach the peak at dawn — will test most people's mental and physical reserves. Altitude sickness is a common problem, and is as likely to affect the super-athletic as it is the moderately fit, but the risk is lowered by taking a couple of extra days over the hike.

What's a more challenging, off-the-beaten-path northern Tanzania destination for people with more time on their hands?

PB: The remote and little visited Lake Natron is a primordial sliver of alkaline water set on a harsh stretch of the Rift Valley floor below an active (and, if you're fit, climbable) volcano called Old Doinyo L'Engai (Maasai for "Mountain of God"). Other off-the-beaten-track highlights include the Lake Eyasi hinterland, home to the hunter-gatherer Hadzabe, and — more commodiously — the underrated Rubondo Island Lodge, set on the forested shore of the eponymous national park in Lake Victoria.

Africa is notorious for its difficulty of transportation.  How feasible is public transportation and/or fully independent travel in northern Tanzanzia?

PB: It's easy enough to travel between towns using public transport (and to climb Kili on foot, of course!) but realistically the game reserves can only be visited on an organized safari. If you are desperate to do it in the cheap, a daily bus does run via the Serengeti between the Lake Victoria port of Mwanza and so-called safari capital of Arusha — you'll see plenty of wildlife on the way, but you'll have to pay around $100 in park fees and can't expect the driver to stop for you to take photos!

Northern Tanzania: The Bradt Safari Guide ($22.95) is published in the U.S. by Globe Pequot Press.